Sea Lions of Haida Gwaii, British Columbia
Haida Gwaii (formerly called the Queen Charlotte Islands) had long been on my travel bucket list. Mere mention of the mythical archipelago of 150 or so islands 75 kilometres off the coast of west coast of northern British Columbia always conjured up for me images of lofty old-growth trees, faded totem poles, wind-swept long-forgotten villages, tiny remote islands, abandoned logging camps, vast empty shorelines, endless azure lakes, piles of driftwood coated with salt-water sprays, and snow-capped mountains peeking through the clouds.
It was all that - plus a few surprises.
My visit started at Langara Island, the northern-most of the islands which for a few decades has been a favourite fly-in destination for fans of saltwater fishing. Using the West Coast Fishing Lodge as home base for the first few days of our group's journey, I had to quickly develop my sea legs, because that's where we pretty much spent most of our time. And that's where I first encountered the sea lions, one of my biggest surprises of all.
Freezing cold waters off Northern British Columbia and, yet, these creatures feel no pain! (Photo: Doug O'Neill)
The Northern Sea Lions, also known as Stellar Sea Lions, tend to stick close to shore but it's not unheard-of to spot these hefty creatures 130 kilometres out to sea. The male sea lions (take a gander at the big bossy-looking specimen in this photo) can weigh anywhere from 450 to 1,000 kilograms.
"I'm hefty and I like it this way."
Sea lions share the Haida Gwaii waters with humpbacks, orcas, minke and gray whales, porpoises and harbour seals, among other wildlife. (If whale-watching is your thing, Moresby Explorers puts together a humpback whale-photography excursion that takes you between Louise Island and Burnaby Island.) The rocks of Cape St. James, which is at the southern tip of Haida Gwaii, provides safe breeding grounds for the sea lions, making late May to early-March the best time to see them in large numbers. But, seriously folks, I was awe-struck with the smaller colonies we encountered who were out sunbathing on the rocks or splashing around in the frigid waters off Langara Island.
Life on the rock: the huge male sea lion protects his colony. Photo: Doug O'Neill
Did you know sea lions are thieves? Terry Cowan, general manager of the West Coast Fishing Club, provided a tip before heading out on our first morning of ocean fishing: "Watch the sea lions. They'll steal your lunch." Hans, our on-board guide and Zodiac operator, echoed this same advice: "When you feel a fish on the end of your line, try not to stand up right away. Just the sight of someone standing up with his line at the side of the boat is a signal to hungry sea lions to come out and steal the fish right from the line." I believe him. Just take a look at this video clip of a sea lion caught in the act of stealing a guy's fish..
Later the same day: Sunbathing Beauties
And on the other side of the islands, where the water is calmer and warmer, the lads are sunning themselves. Photo: Doug O'Neill
Stay tuned for my next "Haida Gwaii Diary" post which I'll devote to my ocean fishing adventure with the folks at the West Coast Fishing Club. I'll show you the one I caught - under the watchful eyes of hungry sea lions. And I'll even tell you about the one that got away, seriously, I mean it was sooo big.
