The Slower - The Tastier

Wine-Braised Brisket: photo Jodi Pudge

"I'm going home to dust off my slow cooker", commented one guest at a cooking demonstration I did recently at First Canadian Place in downtown Toronto. Just one more enthusiast of the slow cooker in a growing number of born-again slow cooker lovers. 

Sure, the casing, insert and lid combo have been around since the early 70s, and was mighty popular until the microwave nudged it off the culinary scene in the 80s and 90s. Speed seemed to be the answer to all our culinary needs.

 But Canadians, and especially Canadians, have rediscovered the usefulness of the slow cooker. Young and not-so-young like getting ingredients ready for the cooker, switching the on-button and going on with their business, be it out of house, or activities at home. It's a blissful easy way to cook, one that fits our practical nature. For inexperienced cooks, the appliance offers a simple way to put a meal on the table. Not just any meal, but a good meal.

There's another reason why we Canadians have embraced the slow cooker. Braised, slow cooked comfort food- the kind of food the slow cooker excells at - speaks to us, creatures of the north. Winter and the other two cold weather seasons - spring and fall,  are with us longer than we care to admit. A steaming soup, a one-pot stew, a chili or curry - now that says welcome home when we come in from blustery weather.

Canadian Living has published over 30 cookbooks in the last 35 years - barbecue, baking, one-pot, country-style, desserts, make-it-tonight quick suppers - but it has to be admitted, the magazine has been slow about publishing a slow cooker cookbook.

But we've caught up with the just published Canadian Living, The Slow Cooker Collection (Transcontinental Books, $22.95). It's been worth the wait - even if I have to say so. The Canadian Living Test Kitchen staff, especially Heather Howe and Rheanna Kish with food director Gabrielle Bright, have been creating slow cooker recipes for the magazine for many years and the collection in the cookbook represent our best, plus a goodly addition of new recipes (desserts and appetizers, for example) to pique the culinary interest of our faithful reader/cooks.

From the Slow Cooker Collection I have chose two recipes to encourage you to dust off your cooker, or to add to your list of must-do-again recipes. First the Wine Braised Brisket, a lovely pot roast that feeds a crowd, and is even better the next day.

Wine Braised Brisket

For this pot roast (see above), choose either a double beef brisket (which includes part of the flat and the point) or a more common cut, just the flat. You may need to cut the brisket in half to fit into the slow cooker insert. If so and you are near the slow cooker,  rotate the halves mid-way through the cooking.

No brisket? Try a pot roast cut such as a boneless beef cross rib or blade. 

1-1/4 tsp (6 mL) salt

3/4 tsp (4 mL) freshly ground pepper

3/4 tsp (4 mL)  rosemary leaves, chopped

1/4 tsp (1 mL) cayenne pepper

4 lb (2 kg) double beef brisket pot roast

2 large onions, sliced vertically

4 large cloves garlic, minced

3/4 cup (175 mL) dry red wine

1/2 cup (125 mL) sodium-reduced beef broth

1/2 cup (125 mL) thawed cranberry cocktail concentrate

1/4 cup (50 mL) soy sauce, sodium reduced if desired

1/4 cup (50 mL) all-purpose flour

. Use a medium slow cooker, 5 to 6 quarts (5 to 6 L).

. In a large bowl, combine the salt, pepper, rosemary and cayenne pepper; remove half and  rub over the brisket. To the bowl, add the onions and garlic; toss with the remaining spice mixture. Arrange the brisket, fat side up, over the onions and garlic mixture.

. In a large measuring cup or separate bowl, stir together the wine, broth, cranberry cocktail and soy sauce. Pour over the brisket. Cover and refrigerate for 12 hours or up to 1 day.  

. Transfer the onions, garlic and liquid to the slow cooker; top with the brisket. Cover and cook on low until the meat is fall-apart tender, about 5 to 6 hours.

. Transfer the brisket to cutting board; cover and keep warm for 20 minutes.

. Meanwhile, skim fat from liquid in slow cooker. In small bowl, whisk flour with 1/3 cup (75 mL) water; whisk into liquid.

. Cover and cook on high until thickened, about 20 minutes. (Make-ahead; Let brisket and sauce cool separately for 30 minutes. Combine brisket and sauce in uncovered airtight container; refrigerate until cold and refrigerate for 2 days.)

. Slice brisket across the grain and serve with the sauce. 

. Makes 10 servings. 

Tip: A brisket is much easier to slice cold than hot. This tip is encouragement to make the brisket one day, slice and reheat the next. 

Roasted Garlic

Heads of roasted garlic are like money in the culinary piggy bank. You can take a head and make a delicious vinaigrette dressing, work some into mashed white or sweet potatoes, add to pizza toppings or pasta sauces. Or, smear it on crusty baguette like butter. Anywhere you want a boost of sweet toasty mellow garlic. The photo below is by Jodi Pudge, and the food styling in both photos is by Claire Stubbs.

6 plump heads garlic

1 tbsp (15 mL) extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp (5 mL) dried thyme or sage or oregano

. Use a medium slow cooker, 4 to 6 quart (4 to 6 L).

. Rub loose papery skin off garlic; cut off tops to just expose the tips of the cloves.

. Arrange the garlic, tips up, in a single layer on a sheet of foil large enough to enclose the garlic with room to spare. Drizzle the heads with the oil and sprinkle with the thyme.

. Pull the foil up and around the garlic loosely; fold in edges to seal. Fit ina  single layer in the slow cooker.

. Cover and cook on low until fragrant and garlic cloves are tender and golden, about 2 to 3 hours. (Make-ahead: Let cool. Refrigerate in foil packet for up to 3 days. Or freeze packet in an airtight container for up to 4 weeks.)

Filed under: 4 Seasons
Date posted: November 4, 2009
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