There's something very special about summer weekend mornings away from home. For me, it's at a cottage - but depending on where you live in Canada, the spot of ultimate relaxation could be called a chalet, a camp, acreage  - or a place in the country. What counts, is being out of the city, preferably by the water, breathing the proverbial fresh air and working up an appetite as your mind starts to focus on the day.

It's a time when you can give the high-fibre cereal a day off, and forget about the usual grab and go fare. Weekend mornings are the time to putter in the kitchen, make a batch of muffins, and once they're in the oven, put on a pot of coffee, pour some blueberries into bowls and sit down to visit - read the paper.  Or enjoy the view.

Nobody needs to be told that muffins are popular in Canada - even though we  love our doughnuts. But doughnuts are for getting in the car while muffins are about getting out an egg and milk, checking baking supplies and not worrying about getting out of your pyjamas...for a little while yet. 

The recipes I've chosen to showcase weekend muffins represent two kinds of muffins - the first , the Cherry Orange Muffins, make no pretense at being earnest - just fabulous to look at, and great to serve when there's company. The Honey Bran Muffins fall into the sort-of -health-oriented with bran cereal, milk and eggs. For neither recipes do you need to be a pastry chef to succeed - or require a lot of equipment, although muffin pans are useful.*

Another point to think about as you whisk up the dry ingredients.  Muffins may be the entry point into baking, i.e. easy to tackle, but in terms of appreciation and compliments, they rank right up there with fancy almond chocolate croissants. Hot from the oven with butter and honey, muffins have a knack of making most people weak in the knees - as they ask you to pass another one...or two. 

Cherry Orange Muffins

This recipe is a framework with which  you can indulge your talents for culinary improv. It calls for orange rind, juice and dried cherries. But, replace the cherries with blueberries, wild ones are best and they can be fresh now or frozen later and you have a whole new muffin. Ditto for dried cranberries or halved fresh or frozen cranberries, golden raisins or currants or chopped walnut or pecan halves. Or even chocolate chips if you so desire - but do call them cupcakes when you go that far. 

2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour

1/2 cup (125 mL) granulated sugar

2 tsp (10 mL) baking powder

1 tsp (5 mL) baking soda

1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt

1 large egg

1 tbsp (15 mL) coarsely zested or grated orange rind

1/2 cup (125 mL) each orange juice and milk

1/4 cup (50 mL) canola oil

1 cup (250 mL) roughly chopped dried cherries

Topping:

3 tbsp (45 mL) granulated sugar

1 tbsp (15 mL) coarsely zested or grated orange rind

. Line 12 muffin cups with paper liners or grease; set aside.

. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. 

. In separate bowl, whisk the egg until smooth. Whisk in the orange rind, orange juice, milk and oil. Pour over the dry ingredients; sprinkle on the cherries. Mix with a wooden spoon just until dry ingredients are moistened.

.  Scoop into prepared muffin cups. 

An ice cream scoop, or a "disher" as it's known in restaurant kitchens, is a neat way to scoop the batter evenly into muffin cups. A #16 disher, slightly heaped, fills typical muffin cups perfectly.

. Topping: In a small bowl, toss the sugar and orange rind together. Sprinkle equal amounts over the muffin batter.

. Bake in the centre of 375°F (190°C) oven until beautifully domed and golden, about 18 minutes. Let rest in the pan for 5 minutes for the still-delicate structure to firm up. Serve immediately, or let cool on rack. (Make-ahead: Store in airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days. Or, wrap individually in plastic wrap and enclose in airtight container and freeze for up to 2 weeks.)

. Makes 12 muffins.

* Instead of muffin cups, it is possible to bake the muffin batter like a snacking cake in a 9- x 9-inch (2.5 L) square metal cake pan at the same temperature, but for about 25 minutes or until a cake tester or skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean.

Kitchen Tip: a large navel orange yields 2 tbsp (30 mL) coarsely zested orange rind and about 1/2 cup (125 mL) orange juice. If there is not quite enough juice, simply add a bit more milk so that the liquid in the recipe totals 1 cup (250 mL). 

Honey Bran Muffins

There's no doubt that muffins taste better when hot. So, if you do make muffins ahead and store them at room temperature for a day or two, reheat in a toaster oven. If the muffins come straight out of the freezer, unwrap, cover loosely and microwave on high until steaming hot, about 20 seconds.

1-1/2 cups (375 mL) 100% Bran or All-Bran cereal

1 cup (250 mL) raisins, preferably golden or Thompson, or currants

1-1/2 cups (375 mL) buttermilk

2 large eggs

1/3 cup (75 mL) canola oil

1/4 cup (50 mL) liquid honey

2 tsp (10 mL) vanilla

1-3/4 cups (425 mL) all-purpose flour

1/2 cup (125 mL) packed brown sugar

1-1/2 tsp (7 mL) baking soda

1/2 tsp (2 mL) freshly grated nutmeg**, or ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp (2 ml) salt

1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped walnut halves

8 walnut halves, optional

. Line 16 muffin cups with paper liners or grease; set aside.

. In medium bowl, stir together the cereal, raisins and buttermilk; set aside to soak for 15 minutes. Whisk in the eggs, oil, honey and vanilla.

. Meanwhile, in large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking soda, nutmeg and salt. Pour bran mixture over dry ingredients; sprinkle with chopped  walnuts. Stir just until dry ingredients are moistened.

Stop stirring when the last of the dry ingredients meld into the batter.

. Spoon into prepared muffin cups, filling to top.

. If using walnut halves, cut in half lengthwise; centre one per muffin on muffin batter.

. Bake in centre of 375°F (190°C) oven until domed, deepened in colour and firm to the touch, about 18 minutes. Let cool in pans for 5 minutes; serve immediately or let cool on rack. (Make-ahead: Store in airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days. Or, wrap individually in plastic wrap and enclose in airtight container and freeze for up to 2 weeks.)

. Makes about 16 muffins.

** So Why Use Freshly Grated Nutmeg?

Like all spices, nutmeg starts to lose its unique flavour as soon as it's ground or grated. To maximize nutmeg's aroma in a recipe like Honey Bran Muffins, I recommend buying whole nutmegs - sometimes still in their shells and wrapped in mace, but more often already shelled and ready to grate. A few years ago whole nutmegs were hard to find, but now they are available in Indian and West Indian shops, specialty food and bulk stores. They are worth searching out.  

Freshly grated nutmeg. Store the rest of the whole nutmeg, with the grater in an airtight jar in a cool dark spot in your kitchen.

July is paradise in Canada. So much fabulous fruit it's hard to know where to bite.  We've finished off the spring harvest, strawberries and rhubarb, flirted with raspberries and currants, and now it's cherry time. Summer! 

I'm not talking about cherries that have flown in or come by truck from far away- I'm talking cherries grown in Canada, often more available in farmers' markets than supermarkets. For lazing on the porch, eating out of hand, and pit spitting, sweet cherries get the nod.

On Saturday at the St. Lawrence Market, sweet black cherries - often called Bing cherries although there are many varieties, and creamy white cherries with pink blush on their cheeks, were the fruit of choice. They're almost crunchy, their cheeks full of sweet juice

For baking, tart red Montmorencies are the tried and true, but cooked into a sauce provide a tangy backdrop to meats and poultry, especially smoked duck and pork loin.

The Friday before, as an appetizer for an weekend of cherry baking and eating, my destination was Cherry Lane, a fruit farm and cherry processing operation located near Vineland, off the Queen Elizabeth Highway in Ontario's Niagara Peninsula. In the orchards, tart Montmorencies were hanging off the branches in easy-to-pluck clusters. A misty rain made their ruby translucency glisten. It was hard not snapping dozens of pictures - from every angle the cherries were so dazzling. And in spite of their being "tart" cherries, they were sweet enough for several swipes at the clusters.

Steps away, and outside the processing building were a dozen or so giant bathtub-size bins of just harvested cherries, cooling in ice water, lined up for pitting and packing.

I followed the cherries as they were shaken to remove stems and any leaves, meticulously examined for imperfections and colour - nothing but cherry red satisfies - mechanically pitted, given another thorough examination,  then packed into 5 lb or 11 lb plastic pails.

In many chain stores from mid July to early August, cherry keeners can buy the pails of freshly pitted sweet and tart cherries to divide and freeze for their favourite desserts and preserves, or buy the cherries already frozen. At Cherry Lane, the cherries are fresh now, frozen later, some with sugar, some without and are available at the farm's retail outlet. If you have ever looked for one of these pails in a supermarket, in say, September, you're out of luck. With home grown cherries, act fast and give yourself a pat on your back for your forethought.

Check www.cherrylane.net for information about their packed fresh and frozen cherries, dried cherries, and their Concentrated Tart Cherry Juice, touted for its healthful benefits and its terrific taste in a glass with sparkling soda water, or in a cherry vodka martini - complete with whole cherry.

Cherry Streusel Carrying Cake

Summer weather and fancy cakes with icing and filling just don't match - at least when I'm making dessert for a crowd. Something simple is better for that potluck barbecue party or brunch get together. I recommend this 13- by 9-inch (32 x 23 cm) sour cream butter cake topped with cherries and almond streusel. You can use already pitted tart cherries or dark sweet cherries, or pit your own. If frozen, let cherries  thaw in a sieve, reserving the juice for another use.

1/2 cup (125 mL) butter, softened

1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla

Dash almond extract

2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour

1 tsp (5 mL) each baking powder and baking soda

1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt

1 cup sour cream

Topping:

2/3 cup (150 mL) packed brown sugar

1/2 cup (125 mL) all-purpose flour

1/4 cup (50 mL) butter, softened

1/2 cup (125 mL) sliced almonds

2-1/2 cups (625 mL) pitted tart cherries, halved

. Grease 13- x 9-inch (3.5 L) metal cake pan; set aside.

. Topping: In a medium bowl, mix the brown sugar and flour. With a pastry blender or fork, mash in the butter until mixture is crumbly. Stir in the almonds; set aside. 

. In a large bowl, beat the butter and sugar until smooth and light. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, then vanilla and almond extract. 

. In separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt.  Stir into butter mixture a third at a time, alternating with the sour cream a half at a time.

. Scrape into prepared pan; smooth top. Sprinkle with cherries, then topping.

. Bake in centre of 350°F (180°C) oven until cake tester inserted into the centre comes out clean, about 45 minutes.

. Let cool on rack. The cake is divine when still a little warm from the oven. (Make-ahead: Cover and store  at room temperature for up to 1 day.

. Makes 16 servings. 

Cherry Dark Chocolate Brownies

Want to stand out with your contribution to the big buffet at the family reunion? Or be the favourite weekend guest at the lake? Take a pan of brownies. But not just any brownies. Try these, fudgy ones, with pleasant diversions of chunks chocolate and dried tart cherries in every bite. All these luxurious brownies need is a dusting of icing sugar - but you can go all the way when you're entertaining and guild the lily with the silky ganache topping below.

8 oz (250 g) bittersweet (dark) chocolate

3/4 cup (175 mL) granulated sugar

1/3 cup (75 mL) butter, cubed

2 tbsp (30 mL) water

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla

3/4 cup (175 mL) all-purpose flour

1/4 tsp (1 mL) each baking soda and salt

1 cup (250 mL) dried tart cherries

. Line a 9-inch (23 cm) square metal cake pan with parchment paper or grease; set aside.

. Chop chocolate, ideally aiming at double the size of chocolate chips. Divide in half and reserve separately.

. In a medium saucepan, stir together the sugar, butter and water; bring to boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat; add half of the chocolate and stir until melted. Let cool for 20 minutes.

. Whisk in the eggs, one at a time, then vanilla.

. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, soda and salt. Add to the batter, stirring just enough to combine. Sprinkle surface with remaining chocolate and dried cherries; stir to combine evenly.

. Scrape into prepared pan; smooth the top.

. Bake in the centre of 325°F (160°C)oven until cake tester inserted in centre comes out with a few moist crumbs clinging, about 30 minutes. Let cool in pan on rack. (Make-ahead: Remove from pan; wrap and store at room temperature for up to 3 days or overwrap with heavy-duty foil and freeze for up to 2 weeks.)

. Cut into 24 squares. 

Ganache Topping: Place 3 oz (100 g) chopped bittersweet chocolate in a heatproof bowl. In a saucepan, heat 1/3 cup (75 mL) whipping cream with 1 tbsp (15 mL) corn syrup until boiling. Pour over chocolate and whisk until smooth. Let stand for 3 minutes; spread over cooled brownies. 

. Brandied Cherries

I find it hard to resist putting up a few jars of brandied cherries. They take virtually no time to make  and are the kind of gift that actually gets eaten, especially over holiday times. Fish the cherries out of the brandy in which they have been soaked and serve as is with after-dinner coffee, or spoon cherries and brandy over good vanilla or chocolate ice cream, or over a dollop of mascarpone cheese. The recipe originated with the  mid 19th century English food star, Isabella Beeton.

7 cups (1.75 L) perfect sweet black cherries, about 2 lb (1 kg)

1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar

1 bottle (750 mL) brandy 

. Rinse cherries and let air dry spread in a single layer on clean tea towels.

. Snip off half of each cherry stem. Prick each cherry with a darning needle or toothpick.

. Pack into 7 (250 mL) canning jars packing as compactly as possible without bruising the cherries. Top cherries in each jar with a rounded 2 tbsp (30 mL) of the sugar. Fill with brandy to cover the cherries, leaving just enough headspace at the top to put on the disk.

. Seal tightly with new disk and bands. Turn each jar over, shake gently and set upright. Let stand for a day, turning and gently shaking the jars occasionally until the sugar has dissolved.

. Store in a cool dark spot for at least 2 months or up to 1 year, turning jars occasionally when you go to your cool cupboard to admire your store of brandied cherries. 

. Makes seven 1 cup (250 mL) jars.

At Cherry Lane, even the pits are recycled as fuel.