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Discover Parmigiano-Reggiano

The fruity, zesty taste of this prized Italian cheese lingers long after eating.

By The Canadian Living Test Kitchen

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Authentic Parmigiano-Reggiano has its name stencilled all around the wheel.
Photography by Edward Pond

Because of its appealing nutty flavour and excellent grating qualities, many cheeses use the name Parmesan, but there is only one true Parmigiano-Reggiano. In North America, we think of it as a hard grating cheese, but the rest of the world savours it as a delicious, full-flavoured table cheese.

What it is:
Genuine Parmigiano-Reggiano is a hard, cooked cow's milk cheese, made only during April to November from grass-fed cows in Italy. Production centres in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia and Modena and is strictly regulated by a governing body that upholds standards and markets the cheese worldwide.

The 30- to 40-kilogram wheels of cheese are aged at least 18 months to develop a crumbly yet flaky ivory to straw-yellow paste with small crystals (or grana). This creamy, grainy texture makes it ideal for grating, while its complex fruity, zesty flavours melt on the tongue and linger long after eating.

How to buy:
Most supermarkets sell Parmigiano-Reggiano, and, though more expensive, its superior flavour is worth it.

To tell if you've got the real thing, look at the rind. An authentic wheel has the words Parmigiano-Reggiano stencilled repeatedly around it so that every piece will bear part of the trademark.

If possible, buy a piece cut from the wheel at the time of purchase. If you can't, buy a piece that is tightly wrapped and has rind on one side to help keep the cheese moist. Avoid pieces that are rock hard, oily or white.

How to store:
Parmigiano-Reggiano will keep tightly wrapped for up to a month in the refrigerator but should be rewrapped in fresh plastic every time it's used.

There's a big difference between freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and cheese grated hours ahead because grated cheese loses flavour rapidly. So grate only what you need when you need it.

Keep the rind. Even when you think there isn't a shred of cheese left, the rind adds long-cooked, mellow, earthy flavour to simmering soups or ragouts. Once cooked, the texture becomes quite rubbery, so remove the rind before serving.

How it's cut:
This cheese changes personality depending on how it's cut. Here's how to use it.

Finely grated Just before serving, add a few tablespoons to soups, stews and risottos to slightly thicken and flavour.
Coarsely grated Without a sprinkle of this cheese, many pasta dishes fall flat. Use for gratin dishes and Caesar salads when you want shreds that are discernable but don't overwhelm the dish.
Shaved Peel off paper-thin curls with a vegetable peeler or sharp knife to scatter over vegetables, salads or cured meats.
Chunks Large pieces show off its nutty-sweet, slightly salty character – great for nibbling. On cheese trays, a drizzle of honey or balsamic vinegar adds pizzazz.

Home classics
With a few quality ingredients, classic combinations that look impressive on restaurant menus are easy to pull together at home.

Bresaola con Parmigiano-Reggiano
Arrange thin slices Bresaola (air-cured beef from Valtellina, Italy) or prosciutto on platter or individual plates. Scatter with thin curls of Parmigiano-Reggiano or Parmesan cheese, drained rinsed caper berries and a drizzle of truffle oil or extra-virgin olive oil. Serve with lemon wedges.

Parmesan Pears and Honey
Cut Parmigiano-Reggiano or Parmesan cheese into chunks. Core and slice 1 ripe pear per person. Arrange on platter or individual plates. Drizzle with buckwheat or chestnut honey; scatter chopped toasted hazelnuts over top.

More recipes:
Tagliatelle with Parmesan, Pine Nuts and Lemon
Cauliflower Soup with Parmesan Croutons
Chicken Fingers with Honey Mustard Sauce
Orange and Beet Salad with Parmesan Curls

What's in a name?
In 1992, the European Union created a system known as PDO (protected designation of origin) zones to promote and protect foods with characteristics that depend on the territory where they are produced. Thus, a PDO (or DOP in Italy) product, such as Parmigiano-Reggiano, must be produced, processed and prepared in a defined geographical area.

Similar cheeses
Grana: Meaning grain, grana is the generic term for hard cheeses similar to Parmigiano-Reggiano but made outside the official PDO (protected designation of origin) zone.
Parmesan: This term applies to any Parmesan cheese made outside the official PDO zone. Flavours are usually similar to true Parmigiano-Reggiano but often slightly saltier.
Grana Padano: Another Italian PDO cheese, Grana Padano is essentially a poor man's Parmigiano-Reggiano from a wider production zone and with less aging.
Pecorino Romano: This part-skim sheep's milk cheese is often thought interchangeable with Parmesan. However, Pecorino Romano has a sharp, salty taste, while Parmigiano-Reggiano is round, rich and fruity.

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