Yum! Perfect pies

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Canadians love fruit pies -- and yet, it's a disappearing art. Though many of our readers are inspired by the abundance of summer fruit at this time of year, their pastry phobia -- anxiety caused from disappointing past results -- keeps them from taking the next step and making a pie.

Each summer, we receive loads of requests from readers looking to duplicate a favourite pie from their childhood. Often they even have the recipe (usually from a talented mother, grandmother, aunt or neighbour), and be it apple, blueberry, raspberry or rhubarb, the problem is always the same -- the pastry. What they remember is a pie with a light, flaky crust. What they get is a pie that is stodgy and tough. So what was the secret of these pie matrons and how can we achieve their flawless results?

Making perfect pastry is an art that requires patience and practice. The perfect pie will have a crust that is flaky, not tough, and just the right shade of golden brown. It must be rolled thin enough to bake evenly and so the bottom does not get soggy or stay raw. Tenderness, flavour and a sculptured appearance will all come with practice. Here are a few tips for making perfect pastry:

• There are several different ways to "cut" in the fat. Two knives, a pastry cutter, fingertips and even a food processor all use the same principle -- the fat should be in fine crumbs with a few larger pieces remaining. This will give the crust a light, airy texture, whereas mixing the fat completely into the flour (as you would with cookie dough) leaves it flat.

• Pastry ingredients combine best when chilled, and chilled fat solids expand during baking, separating the sheets of gluten and resulting in many airy layers. Whether you use butter, lard or shortening, it must be cold because warm fat releases its water content and moistens the flour, developing the gluten and making your pastry tough. If using your hands, work quickly and use just the fingertips because hands are too hot for pastry. Likewise, if using a food processor, pulse until just combined -- running the motor will heat up the blade too much.

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