Last week, a couple of us were treated to a beer and wine pairing dinner at one of Toronto's most prestigious restaurants: North 44. The event was held to demonstrate how well beer pairs with food, and needless to say, a spectacular meal full of surprises was served.

Our host for the evening was Dougal Sharp of the Innis & Gunn Brewing Company of Edinburgh, Scotland. Besides planning the flight of beers, he was also representing his own. (More on that later.)

To start, an amuse bouche of tuna sashimi with yuzu sauce (soy and sour citrus) and a single slice of jalapeño was served with Stella Artois (Belgium). We have had Stella on many occasions but this time the spicy jalapeño brought out citrus character in the beer, one that made it more than just a good, clean match.

Our appetites whet, a stunning treat was set before us -- two perfect fresh morels stuffed with foie gras, fried tempera-style. With this course, we were served both New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (Nautilus, 2004) and the abbey beer Leffe Blond (Belgium.) The wine choice was lovely, especially with the accompanying asparagus and buerre blanc, but the beer-food combo exploded. Woodsy morels brought out clove and spice flavours in the beer while the delicately rich foie gras tempered its honey sweetness. This was a wonderful match.

For us, the second course was the only one where wine triumphed. A fabulous Pouilly Fuisse (Domaine Thibert, 2004) melded seamlessly with a delicate fillet of miso-glazed black Alaskan cod on tender basil shoots. Though the beer, Zlatarog (Slovania), exhibited similar green herbs and citrus notes as the wine, it put the dish slightly on edge. However, die-hard beer enthusiasts at the table were pleased with the match and extolled it as one of the best lagers in the world.

The third course was the challenge for our host as his beer, Innis & Gunn (Scotland), and a huge Australian Shiraz/Cabernet/Merlot blend (Hamelin Bay Rampart Red, Margaret River) were served with roasted spring lamb, sunchoke-parsnip puree and natural jus. The wine match was effortless -- exactly what we expected. But the compatibility of this beer with roasted meat was astonishing. We tried Innis & Gunn in the test kitchen about a month ago and found it quite unique. The beer is aged in American white oak barrels (the same barrels used in the maturation of malt whiskeys) for 30 days, so it gradually assimilates the subtleties of the wood, such as aromas of vanilla and toffee and hints of citrus. While the lamb brought out the beer's savoury nut and oak characteristics, its caramel sweetness accentuated the rich, roasted flavour of the meat. This summer, everyone who grills a leg or rack of lamb should try this beer with it.

For the cheese course, strong and fruity Duvel (Belgium) was an excellent partner for a perfectly ripe Epoisses. And to finish, a dessert course partnered a bite-sized chocolate torte with the cherry-enhanced Lambic beer Kriek (Belgium) and ginger crème brule with Sauternes (Chateau Roumieu, 2003).

It was a fun and exciting evening and we hope to see more of these beer-food pairing events in the future (perhaps even in Canadian Living) as beer appreciation grows and more of the world's best examples find their way onto Canadian shelves.