New world wines: South America

In the dim-lit corners of stuffy clubs, wine gurus are whispering. It's not very often something happens that can temporarily shift their chattering from biodynamics and malolactic fermentation to something the rest of us would care about. It's been a decade since the Aussie invasion and even though we've never been invited to a stuffy club, we know South America is all the buzz.

South America has two main wine producing countries: Chile and Argentina. Even though each has only been exporting internationally since the early 90s, the regions are exploding in popularity because of their palatable grapes, consistent quality and good value. To put this in perspective, Argentina is now the fifth largest wine producer in the world and Chile's wine exports exceed that of the United States.

The scoop on Chile
A country of stark contrast, Chile has ocean to the west, mountains to the east, desert to the north and tundra to the south. This geography may not seem ideal for grapes, but in the middle of the country are the rich and fertile valleys that are home to Chile's wine regions. Chile is divided into nine regions beginning at the north (and hottest) end of the country with Limari and ending with the coolest and most southerly region, Bio Bio. In the heart of Chile's Central Valley, located near the capital of Santiago, is Maipo, the region that produces Chile's most revered product. Chilean grapes, like most new world varieties, are transplants from the old world. They include cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay and carmenere.

Try this:
Vina, Santa Carolina, Santa Carolina Sauvignon Blanc Reserva, Rapel Valley, Chile, $12.20

Carmenere
You can't discuss Chilean wine without telling the story of the carmenere grape. Originally exported from France in 1850, carmenere became extinct in the old world after a massive scourge of phylloxera (a tiny aphid that feeds on grape vines). With the help of the Chilean climate and natural barriers, carmenere continued to grow in South America unabated. Unfortunately, over time, Chilean growers confused their carmenere vines with merlot and with one thing leading to another, Chile exported carmenere labelled as merlot for the next 100 years. It wasn't until 1994, using DNA analysis, that carmenere was found to be alive and well, only dressed up a bit funny. Carmenere is Chile's big red and produces wines that are very similar to merlots but with more plum, black fruit and spice. Carmenere is excellent with light meat dishes and a good accompaniment to ripe cheeses such as Gouda or Gruyere.

Try this:
Concha Y Toro, Casillero Del Diablo Carmenere, Rapel Valley, Chile, $11.95

High and dry in Argentina
Argentina has a topology similar to it's neighbour Chile, only Argentina is located inland, west of the Andes. Argentine grape varieties are similar to those found in Chile: chardonnay, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, as well as some less-known grapes such as tempranillo, bonarda, barbera, torrontés and malbec. North to south, Argentina has eight notable wine regions with the province of Mendoza producing 80 per cent of the country's wine. The vineyards in Mendoza extend up the foothills of the Andes, some beyond 4,000 feet. This cooler climate and elevation produce remarkable white wines that are sweeter and more refined.

Argentina's big red
If carmenere is Chile's red, then undoubtedly the malbec is Argentina's. Also a French grape used for Bordeaux-style blends, Argentina has taken this somewhat disregarded variety and transformed it. The strong sun and high altitude of the Argentine vineyards makes the new world malbec sweeter and fruitier. Malbec wines are characteristically deep gem purple, full bodied, with spice on the nose and loads of big black berry and plum. Pair with red meats and sauces, Mexican or Italian food.

Try this:
Bodegas Catena Zapata, Catena Malbec 2005, Mendoza, Argentina $19.95

On the white side
Torrontés is Argentina's signature white and is most closely compared to a muscat. Torrontés grapes are typically grown at higher attitudes, with cooler climates, producing wines that are light, refined and have an unmistakable floral aroma with flavours of tropical fruit. Torrontés pairs well with spicy Thai and Japanese food.

Try this:
Dominio del Plata, Crios De Susana Balbo, Torrontes 2006, Mendoza, Argentina, $10.95