Hiking highs in the Rocky Mountains

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Surprise at the pass
The next day Clem, another guest, and I try fly-fishing in Canmore. I'm a better hiker than fly fisher, but despite my tangled lines (or because of them), Clem has me laughing through most of the day. Thursday, I head out with four others (Clem and his wife, Lynn, from Calgary; Shannon, who's from Arkansas and has rarely experienced snow; and Larry, our guide). We've booked our own Big Day, up a little used trail. Our destination: Surprise Pass. And it is. It's gray and misty as we head out the hotel and up Saddleback Trail. A few hours later we leave Saddleback for a trail that Larry seems to know, but we can barely see. Snow starts to fall. I keep my eyes fixed in front of me, not quite comfortable enough -- pole notwithstanding -- to look at the surrounding scenery as we climb a steep, narrow path that clings to the side of the mountain. Still, I'm feeling exhilarated and pretty confident. So what if at times I grab on to a stunted tree for additional moral support (all the while hoping I don't have to test its strength for physical support)? And so what if my heart skips several beats when Shannon slips on the loose scree, sending rocks clattering down hundreds of feet?

We hike up past snow-laden trees and shrubs, drinking regularly and snacking on chocolate (guilt free). The snow offers surprisingly good grip though I have to watch my step between rocks. Eventually we're above the trees and about four hours from the start we reach the top of the pass -- a narrow, snow-covered ridge of rock -- just as the sun breaks through the clouds. I'm hoping we don't have to return the same way we came because going down that steepness will be scary. Immediately I realize that, either way, I have to go down.

Like the guide two days before, Larry goes to check out the other side of the pass. I walk to the edge to watch him and gasp. We're on an overhang that seems to drop off into nothingness. I can't see Larry, though I know he's just below, but way, way down I can see the tiny turquoise dot of Lake Louise. As we eat, standing up because the snow is so deep, we can see imposing Mount St. Piran, Big and Little Beehive, and the white-blue ice of Aberdeen Glacier.

Larry returns and tells us he has good news. The snow is thigh deep and the trail very steep (this is good news?); we can "bum-ski" down at least 800 feet of trail. I'm thrilled I can go down by sliding on my backside, because I can't imagine I'd have the guts to go standing up. Besides, it sounds like fun -- and it is. Larry goes halfway down and waits for us to follow one by one. I'm whooping it downhill a bit too fast (you dig in your heels to slow down) and luckily avoid injuring myself when I bounce over a snow-covered boulder. This is the most fun, and fastest, 800 feet I've ever "hiked." As I brush myself off I think we'll be home in no time. But distance in big landscape is deceiving and hiking down a boulder-strewn mountain can be slow going; we arrive back at the hotel with barely time to wash before dinner. At dinner I discover almost everyone is beaming -- the high life isn't bad.

The next day I hike near Dolomite Pass, with Chateau naturalist Michael Vincent. When he breaks out in a yodel, I think it's his mountain joke -- until he explains we're travelling through bear country, and we don't want to approach one unexpectedly. Our last day, everyone participates in the Amazing Adventure, which includes a canoe race/scavenger hunt down Lake Louise, a treasure hunt through the trails, and zip-lining across a river. Everyone had a favourite moment -- and some had emotional epiphanies. Most of us felt more fit than when we arrived, with our brains cleared of clutter.

Even if you can't head out for a mountain high, find your own hiking highway -- along a country road, in a rural park, even around a favourite neighbourhood. And head for the hills: walking up and down, with or without a pole, is good for the heart and soul.

More about mountain getaways
A Rocky Mountain getaway doesn't come cheap, but for some people, it's worth saving for. For more information about Fall High Adventure, visit their website .

What to pack
Pack these items when you hike in the wild.
• Rain gear
• Sweater/fleece
• Gloves
• Jacket
• Comfortable hiking boots
• Socks (thick and thin)
• Sun hat
• A hat for the cold
• Waterproof matches
• Map and compass
• Camera and film
• First-aid kit
• Mosquito repellant
• Sunscreen
• Knife, spoon and fork
• Cup and bowl and water bottle
• Food
• Flashlight

Read about the beauty of kayaking.

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