Photography by Davina Choy Credits: Photography by Davina Choy
On those cold, wintry days when you need something warm around your face, grab your knitting needles, hibernate for a weekend and knit up The Stone and Arrow Winter Set. Designed in bulky yarn, The Arrow Headband and The Stone Scarf come together in a snap. And with simple repeating patterns, they're perfect for confident beginners looking to expand their knitting skills.
The Stone Scarf got its name from its 3D texture, created by alternating knits and purls, that resembles a stonewall. The quirky stone-like bumps are tempered by a garter-stitch border and a slipped selvedge for a tidy edge.
• 2 balls (each 150 g/225 m) Schachenmayr SMC Tweed Montage* in Dusty Ranch (actual amount used for scarf: approx. 322 m)
• 1 7-mm knitting needle
*If you are having difficulty finding the Schachenmayr SMC Tweed yarn, try Noro Obi or Noro Kama. Both are available online and can be shipped to Canada. Both give very similar stitch gauge and have a nice gradual colour change.
Lana Gross Medio is also very close in colour. This yarn can also be purchased online, but be advised that the shipping costs may be hefty. Lana Gross Medio is thinner than what the pattern calls for, so if you decide to use this yarn you should cast on 34 sts instead of 24, and follow the pattern exactly as it’s written. The width will be roughly the same.
14 sts/25 rows = 10 cm/4 inches in Basket Welt Stitch
Basket Welt Stitch:
Rows 1 and 2: Sl1, k1 *p5, k5* repeat to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 3: Sl1, knit all stitches to end of row.
Rows 4 and 5: Sl1, k1 *k5, p5* repeat to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 6: Sl1, k1, purl to last 2 sts, k2.
Repeat Rows 1 to 6 for pattern stitch.
Width: 17 cm/6.8 inches
Length: 203 cm/80 inches
CO = cast on
k = knit
p = purl
sl = slip
st(s) = stitch(es)
* * = repeat instructions between * and * the number of times indicated
CO 24 sts.
Knit 8 rows in garter stitch, slipping first stitch at beginning of every row.
Row 9: K2, p all stitches to last 2 sts, k2.
Repeat Rows 1 to 6 of Basket Welt Pattern Stitch until scarf measures 198 cm/78 inches.
Knit Rows 1 to 3 of Basket Welt Pattern.
Knit 7 rows in garter stitch, slipping first stitch at the beginning of every row.
Cast off all stitches and weave in loose ends.
Keep your ears warm and toasty by knitting this stylish winter headband.
Looking for knitting tips? Check out Sheep & Stitch’s guide on how to knit.
From chronic illness to weight gain, research shows that lack of sleep can cause a host of health problems. Sleep experts share why it's important to get a good night's rest. Plus, tips on how you can sleep better.
It's no secret that a lousy night's sleep makes you feel lousy, too. The latest scientific findings tie disrupted slumber to everything from chronic diseases to obesity and depression. Beyond a doubt, adequate rest is essential for both emotional and physical well-being.
Helen Driver, assistant professor in the department of medicine at Queen's University and a somnologist at Kingston General Hospital's Sleep Disorder Lab, has studied the science of sleep since the late 1980s. "The interest level for the subject has gone way up," she says. "Recently, there has been a collective realization about how tired we feel, and there's a desire to know what can be done about it."
Researchers are working to find out more. In a study published in the journal Sleep, 24 percent of Canadians age 15 and up experienced insomnia (the inability to get to sleep or stay asleep). And, according to Driver, women are more likely to experience insomnia and complain about fatigue because they aren't getting the seven to eight hours they need.
Research shows that, during sleep, your brain is a beehive of activity, helping to produce hormones like melatonin and growth hormone, which play a part in repairing cells, processing new information, reducing inflammation, regulating emotions and building memory. The brain also cleans house regularly, flushing away toxins like excess protein through the glymphatic system—a kind of plumbing for the brain. In fact, in studies with mice, the glymphatic system was 10 times more active during sleep. Scientists at the University of Rochester Medical Center believe this process may help maintain healthy brain cells, and might even keep Alzheimer's and Parkinson's disease at bay.
The health effects of sleep deprivation
A host of health issues can result from inadequate sleep. Feeling stressed out, for example, isn't just a product of an over-loaded schedule or a hectic lifestyle. Among the chronically sleepless, cortisol (the stress hormone) remains at high levels instead of dropping in accordance with the body's circadian rhythm, the natural body clock that controls physiological processes like sleep. The body's resulting inability to regulate cortisol potentially contributes to high blood pressure and can increase the risk of calcification of the coronary arteries.
Elevated cortisol levels in the evening are also linked to the development of insulin resistance, a precursor to obesity and diabetes. In one study, healthy young men who were sleep-deprived for less than a week developed a prediabetic state of impaired glucose tolerance. Furthermore, there is growing evidence that those with sleep apnea also have a higher risk of developing Type 2 diabetes, even after taking into account other contributing risk factors like obesity, age and waist circumference.
Shortchanged sleepers may also have difficulty maintaining a healthy weight. Two key hormones involved in appetite regulation can misbehave on too little sleep—ghrelin, responsible for stimulating appetite, rises, while leptin, which signals satiety, drops. Researchers at the Stanford University School of Medicine have found this specific hormone cocktail increases salt and fat cravings, and may make individuals more prone to obesity.
Inadequate sleep may also be linked to chronic illnesses like cancer and heart disease. Though the connection between sleep disorders and disease is not entirely understood, a lack of sleep may increase inflammation throughout the body and impair cell repair. For women getting fewer than six hours of sleep nightly, the risk of coronary heart disease rises substantially.
Your monthly flow might not be helping, either. Sixty-seven percent of women say they lose sleep due to their menstrual cycle. Backaches, headaches, breast tenderness and pelvic pain cause discomfort, while fluctuating hormones contribute to sleeplessness. "After the age of 35, our ovaries begin to age, causing lower levels of progesterone," says Dr. Nishi Dhawan of Vancouver's Westcoast Women's Clinic. "As perimenopause approaches, estrogen and progesterone production become more erratic, which may cause anxiety and insomnia." Dr. Bal Bawa, also of the Westcoast Women's Clinic, adds that menopause can be experienced differently. Some women say they've never slept better, but for the majority, the ability to sleep worsens.
Lastly, sleep is important for immune system function. People who don't get enough shut-eye are less able to fight infection.The stats are sobering: Sleeping fewer than five hours increases the risk of death by about 15 percent.
"Adequate sleep is not a luxury," says Driver. "We need to make it a priority. We need to raise kids that have healthy bedtime routines, so they can grow up to be adults who give credence to sleep's crucial role in our health."
How did sleep cycles get so out of whack? Driver points to modern technology as a prime culprit. Prior to having electricity in the home, the body's circadian rhythm dictated sleep patterns. Light was a powerful timekeeper—in the morning, sunlight coaxed people awake and at sundown, it was time to hit the hay. Today, simply by switching on a light at night, our bodies are pressured to stay alert and awake, as opposed to following their natural rhythm.
The prevalence of electronic devices makes the situation even worse. When laptops, tablets and smartphones enter the bedroom, problems arise. "The blue light they emit confuses the body," says Driver. "It's stimulating and disturbing, leading to an ‘on call' type of lighter sleep that is not deep or fully restorative, as seen with moms listening for a baby's cry and doctors poised to answer an emergency call."
How to improve your sleep hygiene
Total darkness in the bedroom is recommended by the experts, as it promotes higher secretions of melatonin—which encourages sleepiness, regulates body temperature and blood pressure, and inhibits cancer cell growth. Conversely, light exposure suppresses melatonin. Several studies have linked light during nighttime hours and shift work with an increased incidence of breast cancer. Turning off electronics an hour before bedtime and keeping devices away from sleep zones go a long way toward encouraging more restorative sleep.
Surprisingly, interrupted sleep can be just as bad as getting no sleep at all. A pilot study from Tel Aviv University concluded that when sleep was disrupted during the night, even when participants slept seven hours, it was equivalent to sleeping half that time—causing the same fatigue, depression and confusion experienced by the severely sleep-deprived. The most crucial time is the deep slumber that occurs during the third stage of the sleep cycle. This is when the body goes into overdrive to produce healing and repairing hormones.
Thankfully, the body is properly equipped to make up for a few nights of poor sleep: "It's intelligent in creating homeostasis—so the body will try to compensate," says Dr. Bawa. But if you're exhausted to the point where energy levels don't bounce back after a couple nights of solid sleep, and normal activities are affected, it's time to see a doctor. "We look at a range of factors, like adrenal gland fatigue, anemia and thyroid hormone disruption, for underlying causes of fatigue," she says.
Getting a good night's sleep is about more than just feeling rested—it's about building a healthy foundation for your future.
|This content is vetted by medical experts
|This story was originally titled "In Your Sleep" in the October 2014 issue.
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Photo courtesy Montreal Ghosts Traditional Ghost Walk Credits: Photo courtesy Montreal Ghosts Traditional Ghost Walk
Changing to a darker lip for autumn is expected, but this season's nearly noir berry lipsticks take "going to the dark side" to the next level. Makeup artist Grace Lee shows us how deeper shades can look flattering and modern.
This fall, the new look in lipstick is all about drama, with deeper-than-deep berry hues and, in some cases, jet black. Models from such influential fashion brands as Dior and Marc Jacobs strutted down the Fall 2016 catwalks wearing goth-inspired black lips while social media queen Kylie Jenner launched a black liquid matte lipstick called Dead of Knight, which sold out in minutes. High fashion and niche celeb beauty brands aren't the one ones going dark, either; when CoverGirl launched 11 lipsticks with Katy Perry earlier this year, the shade that got the most buzz was Perry Panther, a demi-matte black.
Scared to try a full-on black lip? Just interpret the trend in your own way, says Grace Lee, Maybelline New York's lead makeup artist in Canada. "Fashion is a way to inspire people," she says. "You can be inspired by runway shows and by celebrities, but you don't have to take things literally."
Start with the red spectrum—a classic. "Red looks good on everyone," says Lee. She suggests choosing a lipstick with a sheer finish or, if you're already comfortable with that, a more opaque formula. And if you're feeling brave, go for a deeper red, plum or blackberry hue. "It's like getting accustomed to red wine. You start with a Pinot and work your way up to a Merlot—something a little more rich."
Remember that when you go bold with lip colour, whether it's crimson, wine or black currant, all eyes will be on your pucker, so minimize your other makeup to avoid looking costumey or goth. "Make sure your skin looks fresh, your eyebrows are groomed and you have a bit of mascara—that's it," says Lee. For regular wear, she advises using your finger for a stain application. "When you apply lipstick directly from the brush or tube, you don't have as much control," she explains. Pressing the colour into your lip with your fingertip also helps set the pigment, giving you a more natural look and boosting your lippy's staying power.
CoverGirl Katy Kat Matte Lipstick in Maroon Meow, $11, covergirl.ca.
Annabelle Twist Up Retractable Lipstick Crayon in Royale, $10, annabelle.com.
Smashbox Be Legendary Matte Lipstick in Jam On It, $25, sephora.ca.
Revlon Ultra HD Matte Lipcolor in Infatuation, $11.50, revlon.ca.
Nyx Professional Makeup Pro Lip Cream Palette in The Plums, $17, nyxcosmetics.ca.
Kat Von D Everlasting Liquid Lipstick in Damned, $24, sephora.ca.
L'Oreal Paris Infallible Le Rouge in Bold Bordeaux, $14, lorealparis.ca.
Bite Beauty Amuse Bouche Lipstick in Beetroot, $30, sephora.ca.
Maybelline New York Color Sensational Loaded Bolds Lipstick in Berry Bossy, $10, maybelline.ca.
Lise Watier Rouge Fondant Supreme in Michelle, $26, lisewatier.com.
Tarte Drench Lip Splash Lipstick in Wet Suit, $26, sephora.ca.