The massive (6,400-acre) J.N. "Ding" Darling National Wildlife Refuge in Sanibel is home to birds galore (220 species, both native and migratory), alligators and more. It's also part of the United States' largest undeveloped mangrove ecosystem. (Mangroves are the only tree species that can grow in salt water; lick a leaf and you'll see what it does with the salt. It excretes it through its leaves). Take a narrated tram tour and you'll get a more comprehensive look at the species calling this place home.
Another option would be to rent bikes or kayaks from one of the many rental shops to see the island's land and water routes up close.
For a totally different wilderness adventure, drive over to Crescent B Ranch, whose 90,000 acres in Punta Gorda straddle Lee and adjoining Charlotte counties. The working ranch is home to free-roaming Florida cracker cattle, wild turkeys, a band of merry little semi-wild hogs that will chase your swamp buggy for part of its tour, as well as a pair of rescued panthers who have their own enclosure. The buggy tour passes through gator territory, so don't fall out! (And don't be afraid to bite back: the snack bar has Gator Bites. Your brother-in-law is right: tastes like chicken.)
4. Luxe lodgings families will love
So long as you have a rental car, you can enjoy Sanibel and Captiva from lodgings on Estero, about half an hour away. But if you want to experience both worlds, splurge and start your stay at a deluxe waterfront condo at Estero. Both the Gullwing Beach Resort (from $489 per night high season, $259 low for a one bedroom condo with pullout couch) and neighbouring Pointe Estero Beach Resort (from $429 per night high season, $239 low), both owned and managed by Sunstream Hotels & Resorts, offer extremely spacious and comfortable lodgings complete with screened balconies, full kitchens and ensuite laundry, two full bathrooms, and attractive decor.
Sanibel and Captiva both have a number of resorts and hotels, both luxurious and modest. None are "taller than the highest palm tree," however, adding to the natural and non-resorty atmosphere. We stayed in the modest but quaint West Wind Inn (From $202 per night most of the year, $249 per night between December 21 to January), which, even with kitchenette, felt kind of cramped after our luxe condos, but was clean, had a great pool and poolside bar (kids will love swimming in pink-, violet- or red-lit water after nightfall) and private beach access. Captiva and Sanibel both have endangered sea turtle nesting sites, so avoid any taped-off areas on the dunes, and keep your blinds tightly drawn at night if you're there between May 1 and October 31, when a strict lights-out policy ensures turtle hatchlings don't get lured off-track by hotel lights.
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