One of the most important backpacking and mountaineering centres in South America is Huaraz, about 355 kilometres north of Lima. The capital city of the Department (district) of Ancash, it's tourism-central for the Cordillera Blanca range of the Andean mountains. And at 3,090 metres (10,140 feet), it's the perfect place to acclimatize to altitude before trekking higher into the mountains.
In Huaraz, rebuilt after a major earthquake in 1970, hotels, restaurants, internet cafes and travel outfitters flourish – alongside colourful stalls laden with local Indian weavings and knitted goods, and the Peruvian version of tacky souvenirs.
2. Serene lodgings
You may have to spend several hours along wildly picturesque mountain roads to reach the Konchukos Tambo eco-lodge, but it's worth the ride. At day's end, you'll find yourself in an 18-room inn overlooking the fertile Conchucos valley, on the eastern side of the Cordillera Blanca. Stay at this serene sanctuary for a few nights (at a rate of about $50 per person, including all meals, you can't afford not to), and use it as a base: from here you can hike rarely used trails into this remote region of the Andes, explore lively local towns and visit the archaeological site of Chavin de Huántar.
At day's end, relax on the terrace and breathe the fresh air as you watch the moon rise over the mountains.
For more information, visit www.konchukostambo.com
3. An archaeological wonder
The 3,000-year-old Chavin de Huántar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the best-preserved site from the Chavin, a powerful pre-Inca culture. The site, containing ruins originally constructed around 900 B.C., may appear unimposing, but it represents a monumental achievement of engineering. Its huge central square, with underground pipes for carrying water, was a gathering place for people to worship, consult an oracle or witness powerful religious ceremonies.
Modern-day visitors can climb down steep stairways into narrow tunnels, marvel at the remaining statues, and try to imagine what rituals might have taken place in the dank stone chambers.
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