How to colour your hair at home

Before you colour
"With the right care, home colour can last as long as a salon job."
-- Christopher Martin

Allergy test
Always do a patch test 48 hours before you colour, even if you've never had a skin reaction to hair-colouring products.

Follow the instructions in the box carefully in regards to opening then resealing the bottles.
In a glass or plastic container and using a plastic spoon, deposit developer and colourant in the amount specified in your brand's instructions, then mix. Use a cotton swab to apply a bit of the mixture to the inside of your elbow and let it dry. Don't wash the area for 48 hours. Use the remaining mixture for the strand test.

Strand test
Always do a strand test so you know how long to leave the colour on your hair to get the results you want. Even if you've used the same shade and formula before, environmental influences, such as sun exposure, time of year, previous colour or the hair products you're using, can affect the process. This is especially crucial if you're making a drastic colour change.

Dampen a half-inch-wide usually hidden section of hair with water, then completely cover it with the mixture left from the allergy test. Start your timer.

Follow the instructions in the box carefully regarding how long to wait before checking the results -- timing can vary depending on whether you've recently relaxed or permed your hair. If the colour isn't what you want, put the hair back in the mixture and check it every few minutes according to the instructions. When the test is complete, record the timing on your instruction sheet.

Tips for best results
• Read and follow the product instructions carefully, especially if you're new to home colour or new to the brand you're using.

• Don't wash your hair the same day you plan to colour. Shampooing can irritate your scalp, which will make it more susceptible to discomfort when you apply the dye. Colour two days after you shampoo.

• If you have superthick hair and lots of it, pick up an extra box of colour so you have a backup if you find that you don't have enough solution.

• Condition your hair with the after-treatment first if your hair is extra dry.

• Use a clarifying shampoo a couple of days before you colour if you're a swimmer, or if you've been colouring a long time and your hair lacks shine or the appearance of highlights.

• Apply a layer of moisturizer to the skin around your hairline to prevent stains from the dye.

• Visit the websites of your favourite brands -- you'll find step-by-step illustrated and video instructions, as well as tips and answers to frequently asked questions.

• If you have questions, call the toll-free hotline number on the box for expert guidance and advice.

Highlights
• Choose a highlighting kit in a colour at least two shades lighter than your base, or based on your current hair colour "for a more natural look," says Johns. "Thin highlights are better than thick stripes, and fewer are better than more."

• "A few thin highlights around the face will give you a sun-kissed effect," says Martin.

• Keep colour about a quarter-inch from the scalp -- heat from your head can send the developer into overdrive and result in obvious, unattractive lighter stripes of colour along the parting.

WASHING TIP: Let colour take hold as long as possible -- don't shampoo within 24 hours of colouring.

PRO TIP: Martin recommends using the enclosed tube of deep conditioner as a treatment. "Instead of rinsing it out right away, wrap your head in plastic, heat it up with your blow dryer and leave it on for 20 minutes. I've tried this on some of my clients, and we found that it seals the colour in and keeps it vibrant until it's time to colour again."

Keep a hair-colouring kit
Keep your reusable supplies together in a handy container or basket you can pull out each time you need it. Contents should include:

• An old shirt and towel
• Cotton swabs
• A small plastic bowl and spoon
• A small pair of sharp scissors
• A roll of tape
• A clock or timer with an alarm
• A small tube of moisturizer
• The part of your favourite or most recently used box of colour that records the shade name, brand and hotline number

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