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Which Chanel perfume should you wear?

We ask a fragrance expert about the Chanel Les Exclusifs collection, plus how to pick a Chanel perfume you'll love.

By Janine Falcon

In an age of uncomplicated celebrity-driven fragrances, Chanel has released Les Exclusifs, a unique collection that pays homage to iconic couturier Coco Chanel. Four of the 10 are rare scents created by Mademoiselle Chanel and perfumer Ernest Beaux in the 1920s; six new fragrances by current Chanel perfumer Jacques Polge are interpretations of key influences in Chanel's life.

All are distinctive, complex and unlike most of the popular scents today. So we asked an expert for her input: Marian Bendeth of Sixth Scents specializes in creating fragrance wardrobes for her clients based on personality, body chemistry and lifestyle. Here's her insight into each fragrance's inspiration and which personality will be drawn to what.

No. 22
History: Created in 1922. Features notes of citrus, orange blossom, orchid, sandalwood and vanilla.
“For me this is Chanel,” says Bendeth. “Austere, analytical, powerful, yet highly feminine and devastatingly sensual. The woman who wears this has exquisite taste.”

Gardenia
History: Created in 1925. Although not a fan of the single-flower perfumes of her day, Chanel loved white flowers, especially the camellia, which she adopted as her insignia. The camellia has no scent however, so she and perfumer Ernest Beaux turned to the lookalike gardenia. Gardenia features green notes, gardenia, jasmine, lily of the valley, tuberose, sandalwood and amber musk.
According to Bendeth, this woman is a dreamer, a romantic who loves fantasy. “She takes the best of everyone and everything and adapts those qualities to herself,” she says. “She's inspired by people and things she admires.”

Bois des Iles
History: Created in 1926. Unconventional, inspired by the look of Josephine Baker, exotic African fabrics, jewelry and earthenware, and the first woody fragrance for women. Features notes of bergamot, ylang ylang, sandalwood and musk.
“This is for a bold personality,” declares Bendeth. “She's an innovator, exotic, expressive and fearless about self-expression. She's a bit masculine, but sexy.”

Cuir de Russie
History: Created in 1927. Features notes of leather and wood as well as Oriental jasmine. Chanel had a fondness for many things Russian. Her perfumer, Ernest Beaux was born and trained in Russia; one of her paramours, the Grand Duke Dimitri Pavlovich, was Russian; ornate Byzantine accessories had places of honour in her home. As well, her 1927 clothing collection exhibited Russian influences.
The woman who wears Cuire de Russie “refuses to get caught up in ultra-femininity,” says Bendeth. “You won't find her wearing lace.” Her fave nail polish might be deep, dramatic Vamp or Rouge Noir, and she has a taste for unique statement jewelry with an avant-garde flair.

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