Beauty
Should you be using an oil in your skin-care routine?
PHOTO: Geoffrey Ross (oils) & Alvaro Goveia (model)
Beauty
Should you be using an oil in your skin-care routine?
Adding an oil to your beauty routine is a must for luminous, hydrated skin.
In the beauty world, using oils in your skin-care regimen is a contentious topic. Many swear by oils to give their skin a healthy glow; others insist that oil-based products can clog their pores and cause breakouts. Real talk: There’s no right or wrong answer. The truth is, as with most skin considerations, determining what works for you is a matter of trial and error. Here, we shed some light on this diverse category.
Oils are integral to healthy skin
Oils are lipids that are emollient. Unlike a serum or a cream, which penetrates deep into the skin, an oil mostly hangs out in the lipid layer—in other words, on the surface of the skin. “It’s the cushioning between your skin cells,” says Brooke Anderson, an educator at Dermalogica. “Essentially, oils help reinforce the barrier function that helps keep water in the skin—especially if it’s dry—and also work to prevent any harmful bacteria, microbes and harsh ingredients from penetrating.” Oils can contain essential fatty acids, ceramides, antioxidants, sterols and essential nutrients; plus, they instantly leave skin soft and smooth.
Serums versus oils
Oils can help protect your skin, but using them alone won't provide you with the anti-aging or moisturizing benefits you might be after. “Serums can be made with oils, water, alcohol and gels,” says Dr. Sandy Skotnicki, a Toronto-based dermatologist and author of Beyond Soap. “By definition, a serum penetrates active ingredients deeper into the skin and has a higher concentration of actives than moisture.”
Not all oils are created equal
Every plant and nut oil varies due to its formulation, weight and absorption rate, which means some work better for different skin types and specific concerns. Certain oils can clog your pores if you’re prone to breakouts; one of the biggest offenders is beloved coconut oil. “It’s known to aggravate and even cause facial and neck acne,” says Dr. Skotnicki. Why? It’s a heavy oil. Paradoxically, although that weight means it’s not a good option for the face, it’s great for the body.
(Clockwise from top) L’Occitane en Provence Immortelle Divine Youth Oil, $114, ca.loccitane.com. The Body Shop Oils of Life Intensely Revitalising Facial Oil, $44, thebodyshop.ca. Lise Watier Deep Cleansing Oil, $35, lisewatier.com. Milèo Elixir Oud in Amber Fort, $225, mileonewyork.com. Éminence organics Wildflower Ultralight Oil, $59, thefacialroom.ca. Caudalie Premier Cru The Precious Oil, $110, ca.caudalie.com. Korres Wild Rose Vitamin C Active Brightening Oil, $75, shoppersdrugmart.ca.
The best oils for sensitive skin
“In people with sensitive skin, something has caused the barrier layer to become compromised and, therefore, irritated,” says Anderson. Give your skin’s outer layer some extra TLC and heal (or avoid) redness and inflammation by choosing products with an oil like oat kernel, which helps combat sensitivities by reducing irritation. Other oils to consider include sunflower and tamanu for their wound-
healing properties.
The best oils for dry skin
People with dry skin don’t produce enough sebum, which waterproofs and lubricates our skin. “Oils improve the skin’s barrier function through an occlusive effect,” says Dr. Skotnicki. This means it stays on the skin and is easily absorbed. Dry skin benefits from pretty much every oil, but some—such as almond, jojoba and avocado—are richer and more hydrating.
The best oils for oily skin
Let’s get right to it: Not all oils cause acne breakouts, but some of the heavy and rich ones, such as argan and coconut, can. The key for oily skin types is using featherlight options, which have a quicker absorption rate and, as a result, feel less greasy. Try marula, chia seed or Dr. Skotnicki’s favourite, squalane. “It’s one of the better oils to use as a moisturizer that won’t cause breakouts,” she says.
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