Learn how to knit fingerless mittens

Discover how to knit a pair of simple and stylish fingerless mittens with our free pattern.

By Glenna C
Photography by Michael Graydon

Learn how to knit fingerless mittens
Knitters know that winter is not about cold – it's about warmth. The easiest way to erase the chill from the air is to knit up a luxurious pair of mitts that are soft on the hands. Fingerless mitts are perfect for keeping your hands toasty but still free enough to wrap around your favourite mug. This simple pattern will even let you splurge on a decadent skein of silky merino blend.

Designer's tips
• Malabrigo Silky Merino comes in a range of shades. This pattern works equally well with semisolid and variegated colours. To view them online, go to www.malabrigoyarn.com.

• To adjust sizing, alter stitch count by multiples of 4 sts, adding 2 sts to each twisted moss stitch panel. Every 4 sts will change finished circumference of mitt by approximately 2 cm (3/4 inch).

See a larger image of these fingerless mitts here.

Mulled wine mitts

These mitts are worked in reverse stocking stitch along sides of hand and for thumb gusset, with twisted moss stitch panel for back and palm of each hand. Not only are the two mitts identical – no fiddling to find the left or right mitt – but they are also completely reversible. You just might need more than one pair!

Size:
Each mitt measures approx 16.5 cm (6-1/2 inches) in circumference unstretched, and will comfortably fit hands up to 21.5 cm (8-1/2 inches) around. To adjust sizing, increase or decrease sts within the central twisted moss stitch panels (see “designer's tips," above.)

You need:
• 1 skein (50 g) Malabrigo Silky Merino 50 per cent silk, 50 per cent baby merino yarn, in desired colour*
• Set of four 3.5 mm double-pointed needles (DPN) or whichever needles you require to produce the tension given
• Stitch markers
• Stitch holder
*We used Malabrigo's "Velvet Grapes."

Tension:
24 sts and 30 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) in stocking stitch using recommended yarn and DPN. Work to exact tension with specified yarn to obtain satisfactory results. To save time, take time to check tension.

Stitches:
Twisted rib:
*K1tbl, p1. Repeat from * to end of round.

Twisted moss stitch:
(Note: As worked in the round, all rows are "right side" rows.)
Row 1: *K1tbl, p1. Repeat from * as required.
Row 2: As row 1.
Row 3: *P1, k1tbl. Repeat from * as required.
Row 4: As row 3.

To make:
CO 44 sts, dividing among 3 DPN as follows:
Needle 1: 22 sts
Needle 2: 11 sts
Needle 3: 11 sts
Taking care not to twist sts, join in rnd.

Rnds 1 to 8: Work twisted rib.
Rnd 9:
Needle 1: P4, k1tbl, work row 1 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p3.
Needles 2 and 3: P1, m1 purlwise, p1, k1tbl, work row 1 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p3, p2tog. (See this increase/decrease in this round.)
Rnd 10:
Needle 1: P4, k1tbl, work row 2 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p3.
Needles 2 and 3: P3, k1tbl, work row 2 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p4.
Rnd 11:
Needle 1: P4, k1tbl, work row 3 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p3.
Needles 2 and 3: P3, k1tbl, work row 3 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p4.
Rnd 12:
Needle 1: P4, k1tbl, work row 4 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p3.
Needles 2 and 3: P3, k1tbl, work row 4 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p4.
*Rnd 13:
Needle 1: P4, k1tbl, work row 1 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p3.
Needles 2 and 3: P3, k1tbl, work row 1 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p4.
Rnd 14:
Needle 1: P4, k1bl, work row 2 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p3.
Needles 2 and 3: P3, k1tbl, work row 2 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p4.
Rnd 15:

Needle 1: P4, k1tbl, work row 3 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p3.
Needles 2 and 3: P3, k1tbl, work row 3 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p4.
Rnd 16:
Needle 1: P4, k1tbl, work row 4 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p3.
Needles 2 and 3: P3, k1tbl, work row 4 of twisted moss stitch over next 13 sts, k1tbl, p4.
Rnds 17 and following:
Repeat from *, working even in pattern until piece measures 10 cm (4 inches) in length (or desired length) before beginning thumb gusset increases.

To shape thumb gusset:
Rnd 1: P1, m1 purlwise, place marker, p3. Work rest of rnd as established, until 1 st before end of rnd. Place marker, m1 purlwise, p1. 46 sts now on needles.
Rnd 2: Work even as established.
Rnd 3: P to first marker, m1 purlwise, slip marker. Work rest of rnd as established to second marker, slip marker, m1 purlwise, p to end of rnd. 48 sts now on needles.
*Rnd 4: Work even.
Rnd 5: Work even.
Rnd 6: P to first marker, m1 purlwise, slip marker. Work rest of rnd as established to second marker, slip marker, m1 purlwise, p to end of rnd. 50 sts now on needles.
Next: Repeat from * 5 times more. 60 sts now on needles.
Next: Work 1 rnd even.

To separate thumb sts:
Rnd 1: P8 sts, then slip these 8 sts and the last 8 sts on Needle 3 onto stitch holder for thumb. Work rest of rnd in pattern as established. CO 2 sts; join to work in round once again. 46 sts now on needles.
Rnd 2: Work even in pattern for 9 more rnds, or until mitt measures 2.5 cm (1 inch) shorter than desired length.

Top ribbing:
Rnd 1:
Needle 1: K1tbl, p1, repeat to end of needle.
Needles 2 and 3: K1tbl, p2tog, *k1tbl, p1, repeat from * until 3 sts from end of round. K1tbl, p2tog.
Rnds 2 through 7: *K1tbl, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Next: BO in ribbing.

To form thumb:
Rnd 1: Pick up and k 16 sts from holder; pick up and k 4 sts along inside edge of thumb. 20 sts now on needles. Divide evenly over 3 DPN and join to work in rnd, beginning rnd in middle of top of thumb.
Next: K 1 rnd.
Next: Loosely BO knitwise.

Glossary
BO – bind off
CO – cast on
DPN – double-pointed needles
k – knit
k1tbl – knit one through the back loop
m1 – make one stitch by picking up horizontal loop in front of next stitch and knitting into back of it
p2tog – purl two sts together (decrease)
p – purl
rnd(s) – rounds
st(s) – stitch(es)

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