Alexander Straulino/Trunk Archive
We lift the veil on the world of nonsurgical anti-aging procedures—what they can do, whether they'll hurt and how much of a dent they'll put in your wallet.
We all get older; it's a fact of life. But do we need to look older? The answer is no. Nonsurgical cosmetic procedures such as laser treatments and Botox injections can minimize wrinkles, remove excess fat and plump up and tighten skin. But they're also a bit taboo, because isn't it frivolous to want to "fix" your hard-won lines and sun-darkened brown spots? Our advice: Do what makes you feel good—you're the only one who gets to have a say about your appearance. We offer a breakdown of your treatment options, just in case your curiosity (or your frown lines) gets the better of you.
SLEEPLESS BEAUTY ("I LOOK TIRED")
If you see an exhausted face looking back in the mirror every single day, the culprit is probably your peepers. "The eyes are the very earliest place affected as we age," says Toronto-based plastic surgeon Dr. Jerome Edelstein. In order to brighten your appearance, you'll need to minimize dark circles, frown lines and crow's-feet.
To deal with wrinkling in the upper part of the face, try injections of botulinum toxin (a.k.a. Botox or Dysport), which relaxes the muscles that allow wrinkles to form and reduces the appearance of lines. It's possible to customize the number of units and injections so that your upper face will be completely frozen, be able to move slightly or be fully capable of movement, though more movement means less overall improvement.
Next, try a dermal filler to restore volume in your tear troughs, the areas under your eyes, which can appear dark and hollow. Dr. Andrea Herschorn, who works with Dr. Edelstein, recommends starting with half a syringe of soft, fluid Emervel, or Teoxane's Teosyal or PureSense Redensity II.
Pain and downtime: Injections of botulinum toxin feel like minor pinpricks. You might have a slight headache for a few house or days.
$$$: $12 per unit of Botox or Dysport. Forehead treatment costs between $300 and $600.
Lasting effects: Three to four months.
WEIGHTY MATTERS (SAGGING SKIN AND JOWLS)
There are two main reasons for jowls and sagging in the lower part of the face: skin laxity (due to loss of collagen and elastin) and decreased volume in the cheeks (caused by fat atrophy and thinning of the cheekbones). All of these changes are a natural part of getting older.
Usually, a two-pronged approach is best for treatment. The first step is dermal filler being injected into the cheeks. "I call it building a foundation," says VIctoria-based dermatologist Dr. Mark Lupin. "You start deep and work toward the surface." Adding volume back to the cheeks with one to six syringes of filler will lift the skin in the lower part of the face.
Then, your doctor or medical esthetician will likely recommend a skin-tightening treatment that uses radio-frequency technology. Thermage and ReFirme, for example, heat the collagen deep in the skin, prompting it to contract and tighten and kick-starting the skin's natural renewal process.
Pain and downtime: Pain is minimal, though some patients will take an oral analgesic.
$$$: $1,500 to $2,100 for one Thermage treatment. Most people require one treatment, but some may opt for a second treatment three months later. Meanwhile, each ReFirme treatment costs $250 to $500. Six treatments, each one or two weeks apart, are required.
Lasting effects: Up to two years for Thermage, and about a year for ReFirme.
YOU MISSED A SPOT (THE NECK)
Most of us spend so much time focusing on our mugs that we forget another important area: the neck. Your neck requires just as much love as your face, and many of the aforementioned treatments can be used to make it look slender and elegant. Botulinum toxin injections can correct vertical lines (also known as vertical banding or turkey neck) and create a more defined jaw line, and radio-frequency technology can tighten sagging skin. Meanwhile Fraxel laser treatments can smooth fine lines and correct papery texture.
One procedure that's exclusive to the region between your chin and your collarbone is Belkyra, a brand-new injection that uses deoxycholic acid (a bile acid that emulsifies fats for absorption in the intestine) to destroy fat cells responsible for the look of a double chin.
Pain and downtime: Belkyra is relatively painful. It will feel like burning in the neck for five to 10 minutes. There will be swelling and slight bruising that typically last for about a week but can last as long as a month, so winter is a great time to try this treatment (hello, scarves and turtlenecks).
$$$: Approximately $1,200 to $1,500 per treatment. Two to four treatments, each eight weeks apart, are required.
Lasting effects: Belkyra's effects will last forever; fat will never deposit in your double-chin region again—even if you gain weight. Can we get some of that for our thighs? Health Canada says no...for now.
PEAKS AND VALLEYS (DEEP-SET LINES)
"As we age, volume loss makes us look older, and most of that volume loss happens as a result of fat atrophy," says Dr. Cory Torgerson, a facial plastic surgeon based in Toronto. The loss of fat, in addition to increased skin laxity and repetitive muscle movements, can cause defined lines in certain areas of the face—especially above the lips (known as smoker's lines), along the sides of the nose to the corners of the mouth (nasolabial folds), and from the corners of the mouth down the sides of the chin (marionette lines).
For plumping up, all deep lines will need dermal filler injections, though each type of wrinkle requires a slightly different treatment process. There are several brands (for example, Juvéderm, Restylane, Emervel and Teosyal) that use the go-to ingredient hyaluronic acid. Doctors will have their preferred brands, depending on their personal experience, but each line has a full range of density options, such as a thicker, more structured filler for cheekbones and a thinner, fluid one for under the eyes. And if you don't like the results of your injections, don't worry; the hyaluronic acid fillers can be broken down with an injection of the enzyme hyaluronidase.
Pain and downtime: Dermal fillers are one of the more painful nonsurgical treatments available. However, most offices order syringes that also contain lidocaine, which numbs the tissue and minimizes pain.
$$$: $600 to $800 per syringe. As a ballpark, one to four syringes can usually treat the nasolabial folds in a single appointment, with each syringe containing only one cubic centrimetre, or one-fifth of a teaspoon, of product.
Lasting effects: Six to 18 months.
Before considering a visit to the doctor's office, try these recommendations for a better at-home regimen.
Eye spy: Look for an eye-care profuct that contains a vitamin-A derivative, such as tretinoin or retinol, which will stimulate collagen production and target skin laxity. Olay Pro-Retinol Eye Treatment, $40, well.ca.
Here comes the sun: Protect your skin by applying a sunscreen with SPF30 or higher to ensure the results from your procedures last. SkinCeuticals Physical Matte UV Defense SPF50, $44, skinceuticals.ca.
Bright idea: Look for a serum or oil packed with vitamin C. The antioxidant helps brighten, repair and protect from free radicals. Ole Henriksen Pure Truth Vitamin C Youth Activating Oil, $56, sephora.ca.
In the neck of time: What did we say about taking care of your neck? That means moisturizing! StriVectin TL Advanced Light Tightening Neck Cream, $99, shoppersdrugmart.ca.
Of course you love your pet—but the bills from the vet are another matter. Follow these tips on covering the costs, and on when it might be time to let go.
My late dwarf rabbit Molly was known as the Two-Thousand-Dollar Bunny among my friends. In fact, medical bills for this fluffball—adopted for just 20 bucks—were closer to $3,000 by the end of her life, 11 months after I brought her home.
Molly had Snuffles—not as cute as it sounds. Snuffles, or pasteurellosis, involves sneezing, wheezing, runny eyes and, in my bun’s case, an out-of-control abscess needing daily draining and two rounds of ultimately unsuccessful surgery.
I was a student at the time, and when my vet was talking options and price tags, I can't say every one of the tears I shed was for Molly. Later, as the bills piled up, my then-boyfriend demanded to know exactly where I'd draw the line. I couldn't say. He saw an inversely proportional relationship between the amount I'd spent on a rabbit and my suitability as a life partner. We'd already split up by the time Molly passed away.
Alda Loughlin, practice manager of the Animal Clinic in Toronto, sees many clients struggle with emotionally charged financial decisions about treatment. Here she shares insights into handling high-cost medical care for pets.
People usually underestimate veterinary costs when they're planning to become pet owners. Loughlin relates that her clinic asks prospective animal adoptees how much they expect medical care will cost in the first year.
"How they answer dictates how we'll go forward with the application," she says. "People often think about $500 for a new cat or dog, but you may be looking—without medical problems—at $900 to $1,100, for neutering, exams, vaccinations and microchipping."
If those figures shock you, best get your fix of kitten cuteness on YouTube.
One way of being prepared for big bills is taking out pet insurance; at Loughlin's practice, 30 per cent of clients have policies. While Loughlin supports this precaution, she admits hearing regular complaints about the hoops claimants jump through for reimbursements.
"If people don’t want pet insurance, I suggest they take $30 a month and put it away, or even pay it forward to their vet," she says. Loughlin stashes $100 a month between August and April for her own poodle's annual dental cleaning. "It's good to have a cushion," she says.
Negotiate a payment plan
If you're facing a big bill and you're not covered, your vet may let you pay in installments. "Mention that a treatment is price-sensitive," suggests Loughlin.
A word of caution: Not every practice offers this option, and if they do, they won't automatically make it available to every client. Loughlin recommends establishing a relationship with your veterinarian, as this will help.
Some charitable organizations will help pet owners who are retired, on disability benefits or on a fixed low income and faced with expensive veterinary procedures. In Ontario, pet owners may be eligible for assistance from the Companion Animal Wellness Foundation (requests go through the Veterinary Emergency Hospital in Toronto) or the Farley Foundation, says Loughlin. Ask your vet about similar foundations in your home province.
Do your research
The price tags for treatments can vary quite dramatically from clinic to clinic, so it's OK to shop around, advises Loughlin -- it's a question of balancing out quality and cost. "Call a couple of clinics, ask questions, and be very candid about your pet's condition," she says. She also advises asking exactly what's covered in each quote: is it just the surgery or also the pre-op bloodwork, post-op meds and follow-up visit?
And don't just let cost be the deciding factor. Checking websites with scores and client reviews of local practices or asking your network for recommendations gives you a sense of the level of care you can expect from an unfamiliar vet.
Draw your line
While I couldn't draw a line for my rabbit Molly's medical care, I admit I sometimes felt frustrated that such sophisticated and expensive options even existed as I fell deeper into the red. And I've sometimes wondered if all the interventions were even fair to her.
I polled my friends recently on where they'd draw the line for their own pets. Most said there was no line, but one had an important insight to share, based on her experience paying a fortune to prolong the life of a suffering cat.
"I've regretted the course of treatment we gave my cat who had kidney failure, for more than a decade, but that taught me a lesson," she says. "Find a vet you trust -- one who knows you and your pet well. Just because you can do another test or try another treatment doesn't necessarily mean you should."
Ryan Brook Image by: Ryan Brook
Our editors share the items they are coveting this February—and they're all under $100.
As much as we love shopping, what we love even more is a good deal. Which is why we asked our style editors to share the items that they'll be shopping for this month. The good news? Everything is under $100, which means you don't have to feel guilty about picking a few things up yourself.
As I think about spring, I always begin to think about what sneakers I’m going to pick up. Spring is sneaker season, at least if you ask me. This year, I’m going back to basics with a classic pair of Vans. Bonus—they’ve been spotted on bloggers, models and off-duty actors, so you know this style is making a comeback. At the very affordable $80 price point, this will be money well-spent seeing as how I'll be living in them for the season. - Alexandra Donaldson, contributing editor
Vans Old Skool in Black and White, $80, getoutsideshoes.com.
Graphic pants are everything at the moment. Dress them down with sneakers, add heels for a more professional look, pair it with a form-fitting top to keep it sleek. They'll go with everything. - Noelle Gauthier, style intern
Uniqlo women smart style ankle length pants, $40, uniqlo.com.
Easy to apply eyeshadow
If I’m wearing makeup beyond my under-eye concealer and mascara, it needs to be efficient. Which is why I have my eye on this Nudestix eye crayon. The metallic hue will add a bit of pizzazz to my makeup look, without too much extra effort.
Nudestix Magnetic Eye Colour in Twilight, $28, sephora.com.
How come boyfriend jeans always seem amazing in theory, but never translate into the model-off-duty look when worn? These "girlfriend" jeans have a tailored fit making them far more wearable.
Gap mid rise best girlfriend jeans, $40, gapcanada.ca.
Animal motifs have been hot on the runway—but if you can’t afford to spring for Gucci (and really, who can?) you can pick up this panther cropped sweatshirt from Forever 21. At $25 it’s a steal—and super cute to boot.
Panther Graphic Sweatshirt, $25, forever21.com.
Kitten heels are making a comeback
A few years ago I never could have imagined loving the kitten heel like I do now—but these days everything is old new again. The low-heel allows me to survive in them all day, so I'm thinking they'll be sticking around for awhile.
Zara high-heel slingback, $46, zara.com.
Classic tee with a twist
A classic white t-shirt will never go out of style—which is why my wardrobe is stocked with them. The latest one I want to add? This cute and cheeky option from a local Canadian brand.
Daddy’s Day Off Make Out Tee, $30, likelygeneral.com.
Say what you want about the Kardashians, but they have the perfectly tousled California-girl waves I'm after. Enter this new haircare line by their trusted hairstylist, Jen Atkin. I'm eyeing this texturizing spray to recreate their manes.
Ouai texturizing hair spray, $32, sephora.com.