Travel
Travel Guide: Oliver Osoyoos, the Wine Capital of Canada
Image: Oliver Osoyoos Winery Association
Travel
Travel Guide: Oliver Osoyoos, the Wine Capital of Canada
When senior features editor Sara Cation explored the vineyards of Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country in British Columbia, it wasn’t all about the wine, she swears.
It’s like an oasis. The sky is cloudless and azure, and the sun somehow seems bigger and brighter than I’ve ever seen it. The air smells so sweet you can almost taste it, and though it’s warm—even hot—out, the atmosphere feels fresh and crisp and the heat is not at all intrusive. Undulating hills are dotted with orchards and vineyards in shades of green from moss to forest, picturesque mountains comprise a beautiful backdrop and there are wineries everywhere. This is the Wine Capital of Canada, after all.
Illustrations: Emilie Simpson
Oliver and Osoyoos are neighbouring towns in British Columbia’s south Okanagan Valley. Just north of the U.S. border, they’re in the hottest and driest region of Canada. The desert landscape is ideal for vineyards, and it’s the only one of its kind across the country. That’s why this region spanning 37 kilometres is host to more than 40 wineries, producing some of Canada’s best bottles. And though I did stockpile my wine collection while I was there, it was the sense of community and camaraderie that stayed with me most. This is an intimate area where everyone knows and supports everybody else; the proprietors at one winery are quick to recommend another, and the summer social calendar is packed with concerts, biking and running events, long-table dinners, grape-stomping competitions and wine festivals that the whole community attends.
A good bottle of wine holds more than a great vintage; it holds memories. It transports us back to where we bought it or reminds us of what we were celebrating when we received it. It has the power to kick off a lively night of laughter and heart-to-hearts with whomever we’re enjoying it, inspiring us to later say, “Remember that time…?” And that’s what Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country is all about in a nutshell (or, well, a wine bottle).
Moon Curser Vineyards
Image: Leila Kwok
Named for the gold-rush prospectors who would curse the moon when it was too bright as they smuggled the precious metal across the nearby Canada–U.S. border under the cover of night, Moon Curser is owned and run by renegades who grow adventurous grape varieties—including Tannat and Tempranillo—that are atypical of this area. mooncurser.com
Platinum Bench Estate Winery & Artisan Bread Co.
Images: Artisan Bread Co., Leila Kwok
After spending their honeymoon in Bordeaux, France, tasting boatloads of bread and wine, Winnipeg residents Murray Jones and Fiona Duncan decided to move to Osoyoos and start a business surrounding what they joke are the three basic food groups: bread, cheese and wine. (Hear! Hear!) After being eagerly greeted by Wally, a Portuguese water dog, you can enjoy the artful pairings of freshly baked bread alongside superb small-batch wines—Gorgonzola fig loaf served with Cabernet Sauvignon for the win—at the winery or take them to go. platinumbench.com
Oliver Twist Estate Winery
Image: Oliver Twist
It takes a certain chutzpah to buy a winery at 32 years old—and daring determination to run it as a single mom—but that’s just the kind of badass Gina Harfman is. She used to airbrush flames and murals onto hotrods and motorcycles, so it’s no surprise one of her wine series’ labels features classic cars and pinup girls and boasts such personality-packed names as Rockabilly Red and Boogie Woogie White. Check out the charming 1930 Chevy pickup filled with flowers when you visit Harfman’s all-female-staffed winery, but don’t leave without savouring a charcuterie platter and a glass of wine while overlooking stunning vineyard views. olivertwistwinery.com
Don’t miss: Show, Shine ’n’ Wine, presented by Oliver Twist Estate Winery, is a vintage car show on the second weekend of July that includes live music, food trucks and swing-dancing lessons.
Nk’Mip Cellars
Image: Oliver Osoyoos Winery Association
The first Aboriginal-owned and -operated winery in North America, Nk’Mip (pronounced “in-ka-meep”) contributes to the local success of the Osoyoos Indian Band while honouring and sharing their heritage. Whether you’re there to dine at Nk’Mip’s farm-to-table restaurant (enjoy dishes made using traditional Indigenous techniques), to stay at the stunning Spirit Ridge resort or simply to taste the award-winning wines, you’ll go home with a greater reverence for the history and customs of the Osoyoos Indian Band—and some stellar wine. nkmipcellars.com
Don’t miss: Tour d’Epicure is a relaxed bike ride through the Okanagan Valley with stops to savour the best local food and wine. Raising money for cancer research, the tour launches from Spirit Ridge resort on the first Saturday in June.
Tinhorn Creek Vineyards
Images: Tinhorn Creek Vineyards
Tinhorn Creek is much more than a winery; it’s an experience. In addition to making incredible wine, founders Kenn and Sandra Oldfield and Bob and Barb Shaunessy are committed to having fun and enjoying life. That’s why their winery offers not only outstanding wines but also lots to do. Tinhorn Creek is the starting point of the Golden Mile Trail, which takes you past a 100-year-old historic stamp mill (a haven for hikers), as well as Miradoro Restaurant, an elegant spot with unforgettable views (a total find for foodies), and, best of all, a natural amphitheatre overlooking the landscape that hosts a summer concert series of Canadian bands (a must for music lovers). tinhorn.com
Don’t miss: Practise yoga in the Tinhorn Creek vineyard every Saturday morning in summer, and take in the Grand Finale Concert, which happens on the Saturday of Labour Day weekend.
Event of the Year: Half Corked Marathon
Images: Leila Kwok
What makes a marathon much more fun? When it’s not truly a marathon! This is an 18-kilometre fun run through vineyards alongside spectacular vistas of the Okanagan Valley. With plenty of wine tastings along the way (food and water, too), participants in costume (the wilder and wackier, the better) and a big party at the finish line, it’s no wonder the Half Corked Marathon won the Event of the Year Award at the 2017 Canadian Tourism Awards. The run is held each year on the last weekend in May; tickets are allocated by lottery, so register early because it’s hands down the most fun you’ll ever have while running.
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