Beauty

How to apply makeup to dull, dry skin

By: Diana Cina

Geneviève Caron Author: Canadian Living Credits: Geneviève Caron

Beauty

How to apply makeup to dull, dry skin

By: Diana Cina
We’ve all had that moment: Makeup application is complete, then dry, flaky patches start to appear. You apply moisturizer, but that messes up your foundation and concealer, and you have to reapply. It happens winter after winter: Your skin becomes dry and your makeup rebels. Correcting dry skin takes time, but in the meantime, Page One makeup artist Natalie Ventola offers advice for applying makeup to parched skin and avoiding flaking, fine lines and cracking.

Prep work
To tackle dry skin before applying makeup, Ventola suggests high-quality oil to nourish and moisturize. “Oily skin is the best kind of skin to apply makeup to because it goes on like butter,” she says. Add a small amount of oil to your hands, then work it into your skin to maximize absorption and coverage. Make sure your skin is still slightly damp from the oil for better application results. “If you do have a small patch of flaking skin, take a warm wet cloth and slough off the dryness, then put on oil or cream to lock in the moisture.”

When it comes to your peepers, “address dryness with a good eye cream,” says Ventola. Because the area around the eyes is much thinner than the rest of the face, it’s more susceptible to fine lines and wrinkles. Choose a product that offers intense hydration for sensitive skin.

A solid routine that addresses skin issues unique to you and keeps skin hydrated is a must during winter. Avoid alcohol-based cleansing products, moisturize daily and speak to a dermatologist about persistent or painful problems such as eczema  or psoriasis.
Skin care for dry skin
Caudalie Divine Oil, $52, sephora.ca. Pai Echium & Argan Gentle Eye Cream, $58, paiskincare.com.

Click here for more ways to curb dry winter skin.

Foundation, concealer and powder—oh, my!
Once the skin is sufficiently hydrated, the last thing you want to do is apply a heavy foundation. Opt for a lightweight product that wears all day and won’t dehydrate. Picking a water- or gel-based foundation will lock in moisture. Just don’t use your fingers to apply it because the skin on your finger pads will steal the moisture; it’s best to use a sponge or a foundation brush.

For concealer, a liquid is best. “I would avoid undereye concealer that comes in a pot,” says Ventola. “Instead, a liquid concealer will smooth everything under the eye.” She recommends looking for a concealer that includes anti-aging or smoothing properties as well as hyaluronic acid to boost moisture.

For women with dry skin, applying any type of powder can be risky because it can sink into fine lines and dry out what little moisture is there. While some makeup artists would suggest avoiding powder completely, Ventola says you just need to be careful with your application. As long as your skin is moisturized and conditioned beforehand, it shouldn’t be a problem.
Concealer and foundation for dry skin
M.A.C Cosmetics Studio Waterweight SPF 30 Foundation, $39, maccosmetics.ca. Charlotte Tilbury Mini Miracle Eye Wand, $55, charlottetilbury.com.

Sweet cheeks

Adding a bit of bronzer to your makeup routine in the winter will give the illusion of healthy, glowing skin. Choose either a cream-based bronzer or one that’s light and slightly shimmery—the less matte, the better. To avoid the patchy application that can occur with dry skin, Ventola recommends using a big and fluffy brush for flawless coverage. “Go along the top of the cheekbones, the top of the temples and down the jawline,” she says. “The fluffy brush will cover more ground and make it look fresh and natural.” Add a light flush to the apples of the cheeks using a liquid or cream-based blush on top of the bronzer.
Bronzer and blush
Vita Liberata Trystal Self Tanning Bronzing Minerals, $56, sephora.ca. L’Oréal Paris Visible Lift Blur Blush, $16, lorealparis.ca.

Moisture eyes
For those with dry eyelids, eyeshadow application can result in a crêpey disaster. Ventola recommends relying on cream-based shadows instead of powders because a cream will keep the lids hydrated, especially if it comes packed with aloe or vitamin E. Apply the product with a synthetic-hair brush, which will help the cream glide on smoothly and reduce tugging and dragging of the skin. “To finish, put a touch of an iridescent loose-powder eyeshadow on top of the cream,” says Ventola. It will help the shadow last longer.

Eye makeup for dry skin
Marcelle Lux Cream Eye Shadow + Liner, $14, marcelle.com. NYX Loose Pearl Eye Shadow, $6, nyxcosmetics.ca.

These lips are sealed
To protect your kisser in winter, look for a lip balm with shea butter, vitamin E or aloe for optimal moisture. Apply generously before bed and you’ll wake up with a happy pout. If your lips are still dry and flaky in the morning, exfoliate them with a sugar-and-oil scrub before applying lipstick. When choosing your colour products, try formulas that are listed as hydrating, and switch to another formulation if you find the product very drying.

Lip products for dry skin
Lypsyl Original Lip Balm, $1.30, at most drugstores. Guerlain Rouge Automatique Hydrating and Long-Lasting Lipstick, $41, sephora.ca.

Cleansing
When it comes to taking off your makeup for the night, use a cream remover. Opt for one that specializes in sensitive skin. Avoid cleansing wipes, as they can dry out the skin even more.

Read more:
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Everything you need to know about nutricosmetics
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How to apply makeup to dull, dry skin

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