Parmesan

A hard, heady, Italian cheese, produced since at least AD 1200, first mentioned in writings by Adamo Salimbene, a monk living in Parma at the time. Boccaccio's references to it in the Decameron (in 1364) show that, by the 14th century, Parmesan was well known not only in his native Florence, but also all over northern Italy. In another document, we find Bernardo Navagero, a 16th-century Venetian emissary to the Vatican, gossiping to the doge that "the Holy Father is getting fat, being very partial to Parmesan cheese, of which he eats plenty." And in 1568, Bartolomeo Scappi, a Dominican in charge of Pope Pius V's household, published a cookbook that decreed Parmesan the best cheese on earth.

Parmesan is by far the best known of the Italian hard cheeses. There are two basic types, Parmigiano-Reggiano and Grana Padano, the former considered to be superior and, to many, the only Parmesan. Its production is strictly limited to the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Mantova and Bologna. On April 1, production begins with the milk from local cows that graze in the area's rich pastureland, and it ends promptly on November 11. Parmigiano-Reggiano is made completely by hand in an artisan's tradition that is hundreds of years old. The milk is partially skimmed, with some of the whey from the previous day's cheese making added. The mixture is then cautiously heated before rennet is added to encourage the curdling. The remaining whey is fed to local pigs fated to become Parma hams, and the curds are put into wheel-shaped forms, where the cheese will age for at least two years. It takes about 130 gallons (490 liters) of milk to make one wheel, which weighs about 70 to 80 pounds (32 to 36 kg). Truly fine Parmesan may be aged for up to seven years. During this time, it's nurtured like fine wine, until it turns a pale golden color with a slightly grainy, crumbly consistency and a nutty, mildly salty flavor. To distinguish Parmigiano-Reggiano from other lesser-quality Parmesans, small dots spelling out its name are etched around the entire circumference of the wheel.

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